CHICAGO MAGAZINE- January 1998Jillian's Coffee House & Bistro There have always been plenty of diversions along Diversey between Clark and Halsted, but a surprising scarcity of hangouts in which to kick back, chow down, and relax. Jillian's (674 W. Diversey Pkwy.; 773-529-7010), which opened in October, might be just the ticket. Set back from the street and down a short flight of stairs, this fireplace-warmed hideaway feels part cozy tearoom, part casual Gallic bistro. Small tables offer ideal seating for romantic trysts, but can be pushed together for groups of non-trysters. The menu, created by owner Jillian Bourne, (pictured above) zeroes in on comfort with homey soups served in sourdough bowls, sandwiches, salads, and quiches. The chef, Carlos Cardenas (also at Wildfire), turns out a crisp mashed potato-encrusted quiche filled with Brie, basil, and sun-dried tomato ($7) and a terrific grilled tuna on crusty sourdough, brushed with wasabi-sparked mayo ($9.50). Jillian borrows on her Binghamton, New York, roots to showcase the spiedie, marinated char-grilled chicken chunks piled atop a grilled baguette ($6). Other pluses include cinnamon-and-orange-spiked creme brulee, and good-vibe coffee hailing from a cooperative that buys directly from small farmers. -Jill Rohde THE CHICAGO TRIBUNE- November 1998French flair Eclectic menu finds a home in Jillian's basement bistro Jillian's, hidden at the rear of a narrow terrace on Diversey in the block west of Clark Street, is an understated dining spot, barely a year old, that exceeds expectations in every category of an ambitiously eclectic menu. The chef, Carlos Cardenas, is a baker as well as a cook. So the menu choices include three copious quiches prepared in "your own personal pan" ($7.95) and a classy flat French apple galette with caramel sauce ($4.50). The sourdough rolls and bread used for sandwiches are of more than routine interest as well. Other dishes from the classic bistro repertoire are French onion soup ($3.95 or $5.95), a melted Swiss cheese and ham sandwich, steak and a luscious chocolate mousse ($4.95). Distinctive touches and bold flavors elevate these and other familiar items above the banal. The sandwich, for instance, includes grilled asparagus and is served with a red onion and tomato salad ($7.50). The steak, marinated sirloin, is garnished with sauteed mushrooms and melted blue cheese and is served with skin-on steak fries instead of French fries ($8.50). The bistro motif is not played out in the decor, however. The dining area, a few steps below ground level, has a concrete floor, brick walls and round, formica tables. A fireplace and groupings of books with Paris themes provide homey touches, but the impression delivered is closer to a basement "pad" than a Parisian pied a terre. None of this need lessen a diner's appreciation of the food. Owner Jillian Bourne, a former flight attendant, says she intended the restaurant to be a traditional coffeehouse, but "everything changed when the food took off." Food sales now surpass beverage sales as many more customers opt for salads, sandwiches or a complete meal than drop in for the cappuccino ($2.15) and Grand Marnier ($4.95) on fall and winter evenings. Our server on a quiet weekday evening was helpful and nicely enthusiastic about the chef's creations. His salad lineup is particularly appealing. There are eight, ranging from a poppyseed fruit salad ($6.25) to walnut chicken on romaine with buttermilk-honey dressing ($8.95). Among the Italian-inspired creations, an easy-to-like combination of bow-tie pasta and grilled vegetables ($6.95) is dressed in a garlic vinaigrette and topped with salty grated Parmesan. Order it either warm or at room temperature. A pasta Nicoise ($8.95) of penne and seared tuna is enlivened by capers, anchovies and a tart dressing. But a combination of white beans, red onion and tuna tasted uncharacteristically bland. As house wines, the restaurant offers the very quaffable Gallerie line from Cave du Mistral by the half-glass ($3) as well as the glass ($4.75). Choose among 10 coffees and a selection of teas and herbal teas. One way to sample a cross-section of Jillian's dishes is to go for the "European" brunch ($15.95), served 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday. It includes Champagne or cappuccino, a warm croissant, two main courses and dessert. ----------
Jillian's Coffee House & Bistro |